Most winemakers boast about terroir. Jesse Katz has built an empire by respecting it. As the founder and head winemaker of Aperture Cellars and Devil Proof Vineyards, Katz has become one of the most influential voices in modern American viticulture—without ever losing sight of the soil beneath his feet. His resume reads like a sommelier’s fever dream: Katz was the first winemaker on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 list, his Chenin Blanc earned the highest Wine Enthusiast rating in the history of California, and his Cabernet Sauvignon fetched $1 million—setting the world record for the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold. He’s consulted for Von Miller, Tony Hawk and Justin Timberlake and raised over $5.8 million for charitable causes. But Katz is less interested in flash than in philosophy.

While “sustainability” gets tossed around like marketing confetti, Katz pushes toward something deeper: regenerative winemaking—more than preserving land, he improves it. That means composting grape pomace, reclaiming winery water, planting Cabernet Sauvignon in cooler AVAs better suited to a hotter future and using NASA-grade tech to monitor vine health in real time.

This isn’t branding. It’s a belief, reinforced by data, dirt and decades of global harvests. Katz has seen what doesn’t work—and is betting on what will. In the following conversation, he discusses what regenerative really means, why “natural wine” isn’t a sustainability savior and how to separate serious land stewardship from savvy label design. Katz is building for the next generation. And he wants the industry to catch up.

You’ve spoken about “regenerative” winemaking rather than “sustainable.” What does that distinction mean to you in practice?

The difference between regenerative and sustainable winemaking lies in the philosophy, goals and practices behind each approach. Both aim to reduce environmental harm, but regenerative winemaking goes further by actively improving ecosystems rather than preserving them. We look at what is best for the land, vineyards, people and wines through: 

• Soil Health: Focus on building soil organic matter (when needed) and microbiology through compost, diverse cover crops and soil moisture probes.
• Carbon Sequestration: Practices that draw down carbon from the atmosphere and store it in the soil.
• Biodiversity: Because vineyards are perennial crops, we plant diverse cover crops to feed the soil and attract pollinators.
• Resilience: We have tried to build a vineyard system that is more resilient to climate change and extreme weather, though finding sites in cooler climates for the varietal set, with coastal influences that act as a buffer during extreme heat and cold. 
• Closed-loop Systems: Minimize outside inputs and waste; focus on reclaiming water from the winery to use back into the vineyard through drip irrigation, composting grape pomace, and returning it to the vineyard years later.

How has climate change impacted your vineyard or winemaking decisions over the last five years?

I’ve made wine in very different regions and countries all over the world. I’ve seen how wine has been made at the very top level in vastly different soils and climates, and this has given me confidence to find sites others have previously overlooked as well as reimagine what they could be. 

We’ve focused on cooler sites with lower average temperatures and growing degree days (GDD) to help us preserve balance, freshness and longevity. That foresight has positioned us well. Our Cabernet Sauvignon and other varietals continue to ripen with ideal flavor and tannin development, without relying on dehydration or extended hang times. In the last five years, we’ve started planting Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals that ripen later in even cooler areas like the Russian River AVA. Over 70 percent of the region is planted with Burgundian varietals (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) that have an earlier ripening time. With spectacular soils, we focus on growing something that can be great now and for the next generation. We look very closely at clones and varietals that are better suited to thrive not just in the current conditions, but in the warmer, drier vintages we expect to see more frequently.

Many wine brands talk a big game on sustainability, but it still feels like marketing. What separates serious land stewardship from a well-worded label?

You’re right to be skeptical. “Sustainability” has become a buzzword, and many industries use it more as a marketing tool than a reflection of real ecological commitment. I think the wine community is more committed than many other industries because we rely on the land and its unique input to the wine. When you plant a vineyard, you hope to have that vineyard live on the land for generations to come. We have vines at Aperture planted in 1912 that still make spectacular wines today. The difference between serious land stewardship and greenwashing lies in transparency, depth of practice and long-term ecological thinking. It’s not just a certification but a comprehensive, long-term commitment to responsible stewardship for future generations.

How do your farming practices affect the quality or profile of the wine? Can consumers taste the difference?

Due to our intentional vineyard and winemaking decisions early on, we’ve started to see fruit that offers both richness and texture while still retaining natural acidity and lower alcohols. This balance allows us to craft wines that have purity, structure and energy. Our farming practices support healthier vines and more even ripening, which means we’re picking fruit at its optimal point, not relying on dehydration or over-ripeness to achieve depth. We are committed to the land. We try to show a sense of place in time in every bottle. 

What’s the biggest misconception people have about sustainability in wine?

There is a massive misconception about “natural” wines being more sustainable or better for the consumer and/or planet than other wines. There is zero regulation about calling a wine “natural.” I could call every wine I make “natural.” “Natural” wines are often not doing anything better to be more sustainable than any other winery or vineyard, and many other wineries and vineyards are doing a lot more and not calling themselves “natural.”Often, “natural” wines are made with flaws, and the word “natural” is used as a marketing ploy to cover up for poor winemaking and vineyard practices. I have no issue with people getting introduced to wine through these types of wines. I don’t like the brands marketing themselves as being more “natural” and putting misconceptions about wine out there, like that most wines have sugar or use lots of sulfites, both of which are vastly false statements.  

Have these environmental choices come at a financial cost, or have they paid off economically?

I lost over 40 percent of my production in 2020 due to smoke from forest fires. We have strict guidelines that we would declassify or take an insurance claim on anything that detects smoke taint (1 part per billion or over). In 2022, I had to sort out 20-30 percent of some lots due to dehydration, as we had a significant heat spike that year. This sorting process took place through our optical sorter and inferred sorting technology. We could still make brilliant wines—Aperture is the only winery in California to get 100-point scores every vintage from 2018 to 2022 (our current vintage)—thanks to the ability to test and sort. Others did not have this ability—but, yes, it came at a financial cost. 

What technologies or tools help you monitor and manage the land more effectively today?

We’re using various advanced technologies in the vineyard to monitor vine health and manage the land with greater precision and sustainability. One key area of focus is water use. We are utilizing new technologies in the vineyard to monitor a vine’s water use. We look at evapotranspiration and water stress through pressure bombs and sap flow. These measurements in real-time can assist us in developing more precise irrigation programs. 

We also rely on NDVI technology, developed by our viticulturist Phil Freese in collaboration with NASA. This technology captures aerial imagery via drone or plane and can analyze vine-by-vine vigor across the vineyard. It gives an incredibly detailed view of variability within each block, allowing us to balance growth and create more uniform fruit across harvest sections.

Aperture is also leading the way in low-water viticulture (dry farming and deficit irrigation practices), implementing innovative techniques that reclaims 98 percent of the water from the winemaking process, capturing rainwater in reservoirs, and allowing us to reduce or reuse water consumption while enhancing soil health, vine resilience and creating more resilient ecosystems. These tools help us be more deliberate and efficient in every farming decision, ensuring quality while minimizing resource use. It’s about blending tradition with innovation to better care for the land, the vines and the wines we produce. 

How should land use evolve in wine regions with scarce water or rising fire risk?

Vines are significant fire breaks and have saved many homes and wineries because they are not good fuel for fires. They are also some of the most drought-tolerant crops out there. We are planting in cooler microclimates, with an array of different slopes, and in fire-buffered zones. We plant drought-tolerant rootstocks and heat-adapted clones that require less irrigation and sometimes even zero irrigation (dry-farming). We have always had the mentality of matching the right rootstock, clone and varietal to the site. We have a “Right grape, right place” mentality rather than planting high-demand varieties everywhere. This has allowed us to shift from irrigation-heavy systems to drip irrigation or dry-farming where feasible. Invest in rainwater harvesting, soil moisture monitoring, and reclaiming water from winemaking. 

You’re part of a generation that’s inheriting land and legacy. Do you feel the weight of that?

I have never inherited anything. 

What do you hope the next generation of winemakers understands about their role as stewards, not just of the brand but of the soil itself?

Quit following planting trends and understand the uniqueness of your site. Focusing on what will be best and not what is currently popular will give you a better chance of success. Wine is made in the vineyard and fine-tuned in the winery. Treat the land as your home and leave it better for the next generation.