Short beard styles now are so common now that it’s hard to believe there was a time when anything other than a clean shave was considered unkempt. These days, everything from light stubble to a full beard isn’t just acceptable, it can add polish and panache. Most guys, whether it’s their signature look or just a passing phase, try growing a short beard at some point.
“A certain level of confidence comes with letting facial hair grow from stubble to a short beard. It speaks to refinement and intention,” says David Connor master barber and owner of the Anti-Gravity Salon in New Orleans. But unless you’re fully committing to David Letterman’s hermit era or Rick Rubin’s eternal wild-man aesthetic, grooming is key. And just like the hair on your head, beards require upkeep.
The type of short beard speaks to your vibe, and not all are the same. From stubble to more robust beards, how you shape it tells your story and enhances your facial structure. Whether sculpting for precision or stubble, consistent maintenance, even during the grow-out phase, is key. Let’s dive into short beard styles and the tools and tips to keep them looking fresh.
The Best Products for Maintaining Short Beard Styles
Clippers
Clippers are a must if you want to control your beard length. “Clippers give you options—you can blend, trim to your ideal length, and style,” says David. He suggests choosing one with guards and an adjustable taper arm for better precision. “This is something you’ll always use, so go for a professional-grade clipper. It makes a huge difference.”
Trimmers
Trimmers are key for achieving stubble—shorter than a five o’clock shadow but not clean-shaven- and outlining the beard. Unlike clippers, they usually don’t come with guards for length adjustments.
“Trimmers are all about detail work,” Connor explains. “They’re great for shaping the cheek line and rounding the neck area. Again, since you’ll use this tool often, investing in a good one is worth it. It’ll last longer and perform at the level you want.”
Scissors
When it comes to beard trimming, scissors are best for detailing. “I mainly use scissors for small touch-ups like trimming the mustache or stray hairs that stick out,” Connor says. “For overall shaping, I prefer using a clipper with a guard, but scissors are great for precision work, especially around the mustache.”
Beard Brush/Comb
Choosing the right beard brush or comb depends on hair texture and density. For thick, curly beards, David recommends a medium-to-firm boar bristle beard brush. “It helps brush through, and detangle denser hair,” he says. For medium-density beards, a soft boar bristle does the job. Also, “a beard brush helps when applying balms and moisturizers as it ensures even product distribution, coating every strand.” Brushes come in both boar bristle and vegan options with synthetic bristles that perform equally as well.
Beard combs, on the other hand, are better suited for finer hair. “Many are made from wood or bamboo, which reduces friction and glide through without tugging while combing,” Connor notes. High-quality acrylic and plastic options are also options. “Combs with rounded teeth are the most comfortable, while sharper, pointed teeth stretch the hairs for a smoother finish.”
Beard Oil
“Beard oils soften facial hair and nourish the skin underneath, preventing that itchy feeling as your beard grows,” Connor explains. While oils add shine, not all of them penetrate the hair shaft. “For better absorption, look for treatment-level oil with small enough molecules, like coconut or jojoba oil, to penetrate the hair instead of just sitting on top.” Bonus points if it has ingredients like tea tree or peppermint, which help with skin irritation.
Beard Balm
Balms add moisture, shine, and softness while taming and shaping the beard. “Beard balms tend to be heavier because some contain beeswax,” Connor says. Balms are great for longer beards that need more control. “If you’re rocking a shorter style, an oil might be all you need. The key is finding the right balance between nourishment and hold.“
Beard Moisturizer
For those who prefer a lighter option that works great for 5 o’clock and one to 10 day lengths, a beard moisturizer is the way to go. “Think of a moisturizer like a lightweight lotion cream-based formula for your beard,” Connor says. “It hydrates without feeling greasy, making it a solid choice, especially for sensitive skin.”
Beard Shampoo/Wash
Beard hair often has a different texture than scalp hair and can feel dry. “Since facial hair grows through the skin and tends to be courser, it can cause itchiness,” Connor notes. He recommends mild, paraben- and sulfate-free formulas when choosing a beard shampoo or wash. “Oil-based cleansers are great because they don’t over-lather—too much foam can strip your beard and skin of moisture. The skin under your beard is delicate, so treat it like the rest of your face, not your scalp.”
How to Maintain a Short Beard
The lowest-maintenance option, usually trimmed to about 1-2mm. A subtle, rugged look without a full commitment to a beard.
Connor explains, “Light stubble is easily achieved with a clipper—just keep the taper arm slightly open to fully open.” If you want a bit of structure, use a trimmer on the roundest parts of your cheek and neck, but one key tip? Don’t outline at the jawline. “Placing the outline on the roundest part of the neck, not the jawline, strengthens the overall structure of a man’s face.” For maintenance, a mild face wash is all you need, and when it comes to hydration, moisturizer works better than beard oils or balms at this stage.
A slightly longer version, around 4-5mm, giving a fuller yet still rugged appearance.
Also known as the “10-day beard,” this look is best maintained with a clipper and a #1.5 guard. “This keeps some fullness and texture,” says Connor. Follow the outlining method from the light stubble section for a cleaner vibe. “But if you prefer a more natural look, skip the trimmer entirely.” Beard oil is recommended here, along with a mild beard wash.
A neatly trimmed beard, typically 8-12mm, with clean cheek and neckline edges. Works well in professional settings.
This is a full, professional-looking beard that tends to appear darker. “The perfect guard length sits between a #3 and #4,” Connor notes. Outlining becomes essential at this stage. “Without it, the look can go from refined to unkempt pretty quickly.” Use a beard balm, brush, and/or comb to keep the shape in check, and switch to a dedicated beard wash.
Similar to the corporate beard but with more defined, angular shaping on the cheeks.
A well-defined yet wider beard, the short boxed beard sits about half an inch to an inch above the Adam’s apple and extends higher on the cheeks. “The maintenance routine is similar to a corporate beard,” Connor says. “Use the same tools, balm, and wash to keep it looking sharp.”
A short beard with a disconnected mustache and a more sculpted, defined chin beard.
“Use the trimmer to clear the area above and below the cheekbone,” Connor advises. “You’ll also want to outline slightly below and above the jaw for a sharp look.” When shaping the mustache, a trimmer works well for a defined outline, but scissors are best for longer mustaches. The beard length can be adjusted with a clipper and guard, and for grooming,“a moisturizer works best for shorter styles, while beard oil is ideal for longer variations.”
A new-ish style where the beard gradually fades from a fuller length near the chin to a shorter length on the cheeks and sideburns.
The key to this style is a smooth transition from short to long. “Start with the clipper’s taper arm closed near the sideburns, then gradually taper as you move toward the cheeks,” Connor explains. “Near the chin, attach a #1 guard or higher to the longest length desired.” Blend from the sideburns down to the jaw and chin to create the fade. Use a trimmer to outline and moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated.
Common Issues with Short Beard Styles
There are two ways to work with patchy areas. One option is to let the beard grow fuller, so the surrounding hair helps blend in the less dense areas. The other approach? Reduce the contrast. “By trimming the fuller areas slightly shorter, you create a more even look,” Connor explains. “This is where a clipper becomes your best tool.”
The annoying itch usually comes from the hair piercing the skin as it grows. “Facial hair has a completely different texture due to evolutionary design,” Connor says. A fix? “Exfoliating once or twice a week removes dead skin, preventing irritation and ingrown hairs.” Hydration is also key. “For the shortest stubble, a good moisturizer does the job. Shorter beards benefit from beard oil, while fuller beards need a balm.” These products nourish the skin underneath while softening the hair as it grows.
The easiest way to avoid ingrown hairs? Don’t cut hair below the skin’s surface. “Razors can cause issues, so with beards, stick to clippers and trimmers,” Connor advises. If you prefer a closer shave, a foil shaver is a safe bet. “Use light pressure and multiple passes instead of pressing too hard as this helps prevent irritation and ingrowns.”
Meet the Expert
David Connor is an accomplished hairstylist, master barber, and owner of the acclaimed Anti-Gravity Salon in New Orleans. With over 20 years of experience, he serves as an international educator for BabylissPRO and Hattori Hanzo and has taught his work in 12 countries, including all of over the US. With a strong focus for gentlemen’s grooming, his work has also graced New York Fashion Week and Miami Swim Fashion Week. Passionate about education, David elevates beauty professionals and empowers clients with expert tips on trends and at-home care.
